The humble bicycle is usually our first form of transport, and more importantly freedom as a child. A bicycle is often a child’s most prized possession. The desire to “get back” into cycling as an adult is often simply due to the memories of how much FUN it was in earlier years.

Whether you are looking to reclaim that fun, to get fit, to seek adventure or to simply see what your body can do, there’s a bike perfect for you. Finding a bike is easy, once you have decided what you need it to do. As in all things, the law of diminishing returns applies. Cycling needs not be expensive, but a few smart choices up front will make the whole experience, and learning curve, a lot more fun!

Every hundred bucks up to about a grand gets you a dramatically better bike, so you do get what you pay for. If you only want to spend around $300 or less, buy second-hand. You’ll get a better quality machine, which even used will be vastly superior to a new one at this price. That’s a rough guide.

What size?

Size is EVERYTHING in bikes. Just like shoes, anything but the correct size is pointless. A starting point is to straddle the top tube of a bike, in normal running shoes.

You want to aim for one inch ( two fingers ) clearance to your crutch for a road bike and 2 inches or more ( four fingers ) for a MTB or Hybrid. Obviously this doesn’t work on a “ladies” style frame, but if you feel you need a ladies frame, get sized on the gents version of the same bike.

Most road bikes these days have sloping top tubes and come in Small, Med and Large sizes, rather than the 2cm ( inch ) increments from the past. These are called "compact" whereas the old style was "traditional". The above stand over sizing doesn’t really work with these newer compact frames. Get a shops help for sizing one of these.As bikes get taller, they get longer, so fit is crucial all round. From here the seat can be adjusted to give you best performance from your legs, and the handlebars adjusted to make your upper body comfortable. Most shops will fit you when you buy a new bike, or offer this service by itself for a fee. Shop around, as fees vary! $50 to $300 AU for example! Here's a great article on sizing:

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm

Going to a bike shop and being sized gives you the most comfort and performance and is highly recommended. Find a shop you are comfortable with, as it’s an art as much as a science sometimes. It helps to have a "roadie" fit you to a road bike, or that grubby MTB sales guy fit you to a off road machine, as they each know their own "art".

Women are increasingly being catered for, and many companies offer women’s specific bikes, with sizing and geometry to suit a females longer legs and shorter torso. These bikes come with female specific seats, smaller curved handlebars, and easier to reach brake/gear levers.

What type?

Mountain bikes. ( MTB )

These are the 4x4 of the cycling world. Built primarily for off road use, tough and nimble, with ultra low gears for climbing. Smaller, tougher 26” wheels with fat chunky tyres provide both grip and cushioning. More advanced models have suspension to further enhance off road handling. For riders wanting the “off road experience” or a tougher bike for road and track use. As with 4x4’s there are trade off’s with on-road performance. Yeehah!

Basic MTB’s are available without any suspension, but this severly limits their off road use. Over bumps, suspension allows the front wheel more contact with the ground, and thus allows you to steer the thing! These fall under light use MTB's (see below)

Front Suspension, “Cross country” or “hardtail” MTB’s are the most common mountain bike. Suspension on the front, solid rear. Front suspension with a locking mechanism helps prevent a pogo effect on the road, which can be annoying. $400 and up new.
“Downhill” or “Dual Suspension” MTB’s, like riding a trampoline on the road, for riding down the sides of mountains. A motorcross bike less the engine. Amazing suspension and brakes, but with the added weight penalty.

“Thrashers” which are basically big BMX’ers for urban use, where bikes aren’t supposed to go.

"29 ers" a current craze with bigger 29" wheels, sometimes with fixed, single speed gearing. I can't wait to get one of these, looks like fun! Supposed to "roll over" anything.

“Light use MTB’s” are readily available from department stores, and whilst looking like a “real” MTB, are NOT up to anything beyond basic use. Perfect for students, casual riders, family outings or anyone after a basic inexpensive bike. Anything below $300 AU new as a rough guide. They are typically very heavy, and poorly built. You'll be much happier buying a decent second-hand bike instead.

Road Bikes or Racers.

The racing car of bicycles. All about speed, with narrow, fast rolling tyres, thin aerodynamic parts, and minimal weight. For riders wanting more speed, to ride greater distances, or a more intense aerobic workout. Road use only. Used by serious commuters, roadies, triathletes, fitness training and competition. Coffee addiction optional.

 A typical road bike has large 700c wheels (27”) 20 or more gears designed for greater speed, and a flatter tucked up aerodynamic riding style. Often have minimal seats! Size is the most critical for on road machines, and a biomechanical fitting by a decent road bike shop is recommended.

A “Triathlon” or “Time Trial” ( TT ) bike is a step up again, where it’s ALL about aerodynamics. A handfull in a crosswind, BIG dollars, but wicked fun.One variation is the “Flat Bar Road” bike. Basically a road bike frame and wheels with MTB handlebars and gearing. For fast commuting, and fitness. These are fun, and WAY better than a MTB on the road. A faster Hybrid bike.

Hybrid or Cross bikes.

A bike which is all about comfortable, relaxed, upright riding. Good if you have a dodgey back. Note the seat post suspension, thick saddle, and adjustable handlebar stem:
 

These bikes blend the good points of both road bikes and MTB’s and produce bikes perfect for families, casual cruising, commuting and fun. If you want comfort first, this is the best choice. Hybrids have super comfortable saddles, upright riding positions with higher handlebars. What most people that buy a MTB for "going riding" should be purchasing. Ladies frames and more traditional styled bikes available:

ACCESSORIES

Helmet. Required by law in most countries, a helmet is the only thing other than a bike you really have to have. Modern helmets are simply a foam bucket that sits on your head, and is destroyed in an impact. Road versions are very sleek and aerodynamic:
The foam squashes and cracks instead of your skull, and dramatically improves your chances of turning a serious head injury into a minor one. In a decent crash you will be VERY grateful for it ( have tested a few...). A basic department store helmet will do the job, IF it stays in place. More expensive helmets have better straps and features to help it stay put on your head, for if it can move around, it won’t be where it needs to be as you fall.

The greatest innovation in helmets is the lower back system that really cups your head. Note the lower strap:

Another modern design is fusion technology where the foam is fused with the hard outer shell. Cheaper helmets have the cover stuck on, and are FAR weaker. You can stand on a decent fused helmet without it breaking, whereas a basic foam one will shatter.

These specific features are very worthwhile. From there you pay for styling, venting and in some cases better technology again, such as internal skeleton structures inside the foam. No need to go crazy, but how much is your head worth?

Some GREAT info on helmet function, and down the bottom of the page, adjusting the helmet to fit properly!
http://www.bellbikehelmets.com/helmet101.asp

Some helmets have a visor on the front like a cap. This is great for everyday cycling as it keeps the sun off your face. In off road situations it allows you to dip your head to avoid branches that would otherwise hit you in the eyes. This works really well.

Cycling knicks or pants. Basically a way to hold a soft "chamois" or pad against your bits, and make the whole experience WAY more comfortable. Generally made of body hugging Lycra, they are designed to allow you total freedom of movement whilst preventing chafing on the seat. You pay for better fit, and for more advanced padding. You do really get what you pay for here. Designed to be worn WITHOUT underwear, a common mistake for beginners. For starting out or longer rides, a bit of moisturiser can work wonders in helping to prevent chafing.

These tights are also available in a shoulder suspender style short, called a "bib short" or "bibs". These are more comfortable, especially if you have a bit of a belly, but are hotter than just shorts because of the extra material.

If you are uncomfortable with the sheer lycra look, or don’t want other mountain bikers to avoid you, normal shorts with a padded lining are also available. This then allows you the comfort, without the superman factor.
Glasses. Look cool, stop the eyes watering at speed, and keep the kamikaze bugs out! Larger sunglasses are better than small ones for blocking the wind. Ones with swappable clearer lenses are great for cycling in morning and evening situations, where the less light makes sunglasses unsuitable. Yellow lenses are awesome in low light situations.

Gloves. As your upper body contacts the bike via your hands, padded gloves help make things more comfortable. Also great for protecting your palms in case of a fall. MTB riders tend to use MX style full finger gloves for added protection.

Water bottles or Biddons. Handy to have, as dehydration is the biggest limiter in performance for any cyclist. As mountain bikers and other off roaders find it harder to reach down and grab a bottle over rough terrain, hydration style backpacks with a bladder are the method of choice. Also doubles up as great spinal protection!

Luxury accessories.

Cycling shoes and clipless pedals. These are cycling specific shoes with a hard sole that clip into specific pedals. MTB shoes have chunkier soles, as per the second picture:
These allow much more efficient cycling, but do take a little time to master. It is scary at first to be “clipped in” but the performance benefit is very worthwhile. After a ride or two clipping in and out becomes automatic, and quite simple. Allows you to actually pedal in circles, rather than just the usual “pushing down” on normal pedals. Try cycling with one leg to see where you can’t put power into the pedal stroke without these. A typical "clipless" road pedal:
and the large "cleat" that sits on the bottom of your road shoe ( makes walking very awkward!) :
MTB pedals have much smaller cleats that are flush with the bottom of the shoe, so the shoe can be used like a normal one when covering rough ground or walking. Also perfect for commuters and recreational cyclists, as recreational shoes look quite normal:
A typical MTB pedal:

note the small silver cleat on these MTB shoes :

Mountain bikers will do best with pedals that also have a bit of a platform, so you can pedal normally till you get a chance to clip back in.
Seats or saddles. The most important junction between rider and machine, the correct seat can make a LOT of difference. You can spend a lot of money, but a lot of top end technology has filtered down to the more affordable seats. Getting a gender specific saddle is a must, especially for the ladies. With specific padding, cutouts and gel portions, a seat becomes a highly personal thing. Further, saddles with cutouts or relief sections in the middle help retain blood flow to your crotch, which is exceptionally important for the guys, as well as just being a lot more comfortable for the ladies! A modern guys saddle first, ladies version follows. Note the different shapes, especially in length and width, to suit specifics in the pelvis:
A common mistake it to go for an overly padded seat, which is fine for small distances and standard on comfort bikes, but over longer distances doesn’t support your "sit bones" correctly, and you put pressure onto softer areas. A less padded but better designed saddle whilst a bit hard at first, quickly becomes comfortable, especially on road bikes or anyone travelling any sort of distance.

One critical factor is the seat MUST be set up dead level, like spirit level -level!! A lot of people try dropping the nose to ease pressure on their "bits" but this has the effect of making you roll forward onto them! Spend time working out how to sit on your saddle, and work on sitting flatter on it by "tilting" your hips forwards, so you sit more on your bum. Only advanced users should be really moving from that level position, it's far better to get used to it and sit on it properly. Tight hammies are the usual problem preventing people sitting correctly.

All saddles will feel uncomfortable till you get used to them, so starting off with smaller rides and getting used to the feel is the key. Too much too soon discourages a lot of cyclists! There's always this......

Yes I've had a go of one, yes it's WEIRD, but there is NO pressure! Did feel like you were falling off it the entire time though!

“Specialized” is a leader in saddle technology, and in body geometry in general. I use a lot of their gear. “Terry” is an exceptional womens saddle and accessory brand, and Velo is a large, inexpensive yet popular saddle manufacturer from Asia. Great brands to consider upgrading to if you just aren’t making friends with your saddle.
 

http://www.specialized.com/zz/en/bc/SBCExperience.jsp?eid=5007&menuItemId=9302
http://www.terrybicycles.com/product.html?c=Saddles
http://www.velosaddles.com/obm.html

Cycling tops, longs and warmers. Cycling shirts are made from moisture wicking coolmax that prevents that wet T-shirt effect. Also have zips for cooling and pockets in the back to carry stuff. One word of advice is to only carry soft objects in the centre pocket over your spine in case you ever fall onto your back! I've bent keys on my spine, scary stuff!

Long pants and “arm warmers” or sleeves are great for colder climates or winter riding. You’ll find you can get away with less on your legs as they are moving and generating heat, but your arms will get cold and stay that way. They are like removable socks for your limbs.

In cold weather, full finger gloves and thick socks or shoe covers help keep your extremities toasty, and you much happier! Generally if your hands and feet are warm, you are much more so as well. Headwraps / liners help a lot as well.Mountain bikers may add elbow, knee pads and other armoured equipment to this mix, for obvious reasons!Toolbags, spare tubes, pump. Obviously only handy if you know how to use them, but can save a long walk home if you have no mobile reception / friends!
A small, frame mounted pump is designed to fix a flat tyre out on the road.

These take quite a while to inflate a tyre, and for routine use a much larger “floorpump” is a great choice to pump up your tyres before each ride. Most small pumps won't achieve the 100psi or more road bikes require.

Lights, computers. A red LED rear light is a must for low light situations, and a real life saver. Makes you stand out to the traffic, so get a bright one.

Front LED white lights at least warn traffic of your presence, but a headlight to actually see with is a lot more serious, usually with a rechargeable battery.

Newer LED technology produces amazing levels of light with minimal weight. Batteries also last far longer than normal torch bulbs.

Computers are a fun toy, but it’s fine to cycle without one.

For road use a “cadence” computer that tells you your pedal rate is a very handy training tool, and 90rpm is a rough ideal to aim for. Feels a little fast at first, but watch good cyclists on TV and out on the road, they all spin. Higher end computers include functions such as heart rate, and even display what gear you are in, but this doesn’t come cheap.

Materials

Bikes are made from various materials.

Steel is the traditional material, but is a mature product, and falling out of favour. Can still be found in traditional, retro framesets, and in the cheaper light duty MTB and kids bike market. Strong, long lasting, easily repaired and shock absorbing, gives a sweet ride, but heavier, and can rust.

Aluminium is the most common material for bikes. Light and strong with no corrosion problems, Aluminium or "Alloy" suits the modern bicycle. The downside is the harsh nature of the material, and a full alloy bike is not comfortable for any length of time without some suspension or vibration dulling parts. Does fatigue over time, although major failures are quite rare. Cheap alloy frames are quite heavy, sometimes heavier than steel!

Titanium is an alloy which is mainly Aluminium, but behaves like steel with a great ride for less weight. Ultra expensive, but uber cool.

Carbon Fibre is the new wonder material for bikes. Very light for it’s high strength, but expensive. Carbon Fibre has an added benefit of being very shock absorbing, and is often used in front forks on road bikes, seat posts and other areas to provide a more comfortable ride, especially on alloy frames. Never rusts, but can crack, and is difficult / impossible to repair correctly.

Parts or Groupsets.

The mechanical parts, called the “groupset” or “componentry” on a bike will most probably be from the giant Japanese manufacturer “Shimano”. They come in road:

and Mountain bike sets. Note the extra gears on the crank and disc brakes ( although lower mountain groupsets still have lever style rim "V-Brakes" )

“Campagnolo”, “SRAM”, “Sachs” and other niche groupsets are quite specialised, and best researched in depth.

Comfort bikes and casual users generally won’t put the miles and thus wear into their parts, so the need for quality levels and corresponding expense isn’t as great. More advanced road users, and part-destroying MTB’ers will need to consider their componentry more intently.

It's FAR cheaper to buy a groupset already on a bike, rather than upgrading later. Large manufacturers can purchase high volumes of componentry, and they can often offer a complete bike at about the same cost of the components alone. "Giant" is one such brand, shown here for a good reason. They are generally hard to beat for value.

Shimano, who love to make changes to names and levels over the years, are graded like this, from the top down:

Current Road Groupsets

Dura–ace, pro use, no expense spared, lasts a long time, which is good given the bill. Now has an electronic, cable-less version "Di"
Ultegra, serious athlete use, more than enough for 99% of riders.
105, the most cost effective for performance, serious to advanced use:

Tiagra, fitness, touring, sport use, great bang for buck, for intermediate users.
Sora, recreational, beginners, some weight and performance penalty, inexpensive.                                                 2200 entry level groupset, good for your first bike.

Late 90’s early 2000’s Road groupsets

Dura ace - 9 speed, quality, pro use, great bargain second-hand.
Ultegra 600 - 8 speed till 1996, then 9 speed, much the same as Tiagra/105 today.
105 - 8 speed till 97 or so, then 9 speed, where the “good” stuff starts. What to aim for.
RSX - 7 speed, replaced by Tiagra/Sora 1997. Mostly stuffed by now.
300EX - basic 7 speed, in fact any “EX” will be at least 10 years old. Budget end, but fine for starting out if still working.


Current MTB Groupsets

XTR – the cream, and with a price to match.
SAINT - new level for Shimano, race level componentry
XT – advanced off road use
SLX – the level to aim for, serious MTB equipment, also where disc brakes start:

Deore LX – now aimed at trekking bikes. V-brakes only.
Deore – recreational, on and off road.
Alivio – entry level, inexpensive groupset.
 

Mid 2000's:

XTR- still the top stuff.                                                                                                                                     Deore XT- the second rung.                                                                                                                              Deore LX - serious stuff replaced by SLX.                                                                                                          Deore - where "true" off roadable stuff started.

                                                                                                                                                                      Alivio - serious commuting and light off road use.                                                                                                Acera - the old entry level.

Late 90’s early 2000’s MTB groupsets

XTR – the last 5% at a lot more $$$. Pro use only.
XT – serious gear, all you need, 95% as good as XTR
LX – nice gear, advanced use, wears well
STX-RC – slightly better, but stuff all difference really.
STX – like 105 in road components, where “real” off-road gear starts. Aim here.
Alivio – getting into nicer gear for recreational off road use.
Acera - a subtle step up in performance, fine for mainly road use.
Altus – the base level MTB gear, not up to anything serious off road.
Tourney series – eg TY30, basic light duty recreational use MTB. Inexpensive.



If you are at the stage of looking into groupsets, it’s time to expand your research:
http://www.shimano.com/publish/conte...ll/all/en.html

http://www.sram.com/

http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/index/home_true.jsp

road, hybrid and some confort bikes reviewed:
http://www.roadbikereview.com/reviewscrx.aspx

Everything off road:
http://www.mtbr.com/

Ask around, do your research and most importantly, simply get out there, start pedalling, and rediscover that huge kid smile : )